{"id":4588,"date":"2011-09-16T07:55:36","date_gmt":"2011-09-16T05:55:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/monocultured.com\/blog\/?p=4588"},"modified":"2014-03-30T14:11:13","modified_gmt":"2014-03-30T13:11:13","slug":"doing-the-reprap-10","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/monocultured.com\/blog\/doing-the-reprap-10\/","title":{"rendered":"Doing the RepRap #10"},"content":{"rendered":"

Before you can print from your STL file you need to convert it to gcode. Think of it as Postscript for 3D-printers and 2D routers. The tool of choice for people working with RepRap has been Skeinforge<\/a>, which has acquired tons of functionality at the expense of usability: It’s ugly as sin and has more features than are properly documented (or documented at all) so I’m happy to see that there are alternative versions cropping up, like SFACT<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Also, putting the printer together I ran into some issues with the otherwise excellent documentation put together by Gary Hodgeson<\/a>, namely the parts using the LM8UU linear bearings instead of printed bushings. Because I don’t have any spare parts I’m terrified of messing up those I bought from Greg Frost (shipped all the way from Australia) so am anxiously browsing the RepRap wiki and forums in search of instructions. I’ve already managed to put the Y-motor bracket in every position possible, and finally had to email Greg to get a picture of how to do it properly. I’m documenting every step, but so far it’s more of a blooper reel\u2026<\/p>\n

I finally found an excellent description of how to fit all the parts together: How to build up a LM8UU Linear Bearing Prusa<\/a>. It does exactly what it says on the tin, and with the exception that I’m going for a three bearing bottom plate, I ought to be able to finish the build in no time. Now, if I could only settle on which lubricant to use for the rods, I’d be set. “Light machine oil” or “PTFE spray” is the question.<\/p>\n

\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014<\/p>\n

Update from the comments. In the video below I’ve inserted the pins from the wrong side. The black plastic bits should go on the underside<\/em> of the Polo, so that it’ll sit flush with the mounts. As it stands, the Polos work for me soldered this way as well, but it’s more finicky and there’s a risk that you’ll have too much solder left and won’t be able to push the pins far enough into the mounts.<\/p>\n

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